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Between the extremes of inhumation burial in a shroud or wrappings and burial fully clothed but unwrapped lies a spectrum of possibilities which digging archaeologists should bear in mind when in the field, even if no textile material survives.
In: D. Mladenovic und B. Russel (Hrsg.): TRAC 2010, Proceedings of the Twentieth Annual Theoretic Roman Archaeology Conference, Oxford 25-28 March 2010. Oxford and Oakville, 102-114., 2011
Title: Cloth and Clothing from Cemeteries in Noricum2011 •
Burial sites are the main source for preserved cloth fragments in Noricum. In recent years the scientific discussion of the processes of interpretating clothing and appearance through the remains in graves in Central Europe has increased, especially regarding the problems and limits of defining ethnicity using this material. The main focus always lies on jewellery and the metal parts of costume in the graves, as they are usually the only remains left for archaeological research. Our research has two aims: first, to provide a collection of data for basic research on Roman textiles in Austria. Secondly, to provide a means by which to develop a new method for analysing the material itself, the direct legacy of the people and their attire and costume worn at their burial. This offers a valuable addition to the analysis of written sources and well-known depictions. In a further step, it should be possible with this approach to develop new theories that can be combined with the traditional analyses of non-organic remains in graves. To identify Late Roman weave types in Austria (third-fifth century A.D.) within the framework of the DressID Project (Grömer und Kern 2008) archaeological textiles from modern Austrian territory were analysed.
2017 •
From the earliest colonial times the necropolis of Cumae has been characterised by cremation burials, deposited in a bronze or silver urn and placed in a stone cist. This burial system, present in different iterations throughout time, is well known and widely discussed in the literature. The presence of textiles used to wrap the bones or metal containers is recorded in the early 19th century excavation reports and has been confirmed by subsequent research. This use of textiles has been traditionally explained in light of the Homeric descriptions of heroic funerals. This paper attempts to systematically collect the available evidence, and to compare the information on funerary ceremonies that are known from the literary sources, with the data provided by the current analysis of extant textiles. The data collected to date indicate a continuity of specific textile use within cremation burials of Archaic Cumae, which whilst mimicking a much older tradition, express very different social realities.
2018 •
The topic of this paper is ossuary dressing in the broader context of the commemoration of death in the pre-Roman world. Recent studies suggest that this ritual practice was not linked to exceptional circumstances in Italy; rather, was quite commonplace, as documented by new evidence from cemeteries such as Verucchio and Tarquinia. In Veneto, at the end of the 19th century, Alessandro Prosdocimi, the discoverer of Palaeovenetic civilisation, wrote, “On the custom of the ancients to cover cinerary urns with cloth.” In recent years, more refined techniques of excavation have allowed for the analysis of mi- crostratigraphy and enhanced study of the archaeological record, facilitating the identification of a number of textile traces in graves from Este (PD) and elsewhere. These artefacts are now the subject of expert analysis and detailed studies. Here, some emblematic cases are presented to demonstrate the considerable ritual variability that characterises the depositional sequence of funerary objects during the period from the 8th to the 3rd century BC.
The Textile Revolution in Bronze Age Europe; Production, Specialisation, Consumption
The Challenge of Textiles in Early Bronze Age Burials: Fragments of Magnificence. In: Sabatini, S. & Bergerbrant, S. (eds.) The Textile Revolution in Bronze Age Europe; Production, Specialisation, Consumption. Cambridge University Press: Cambridge. Pp.154-1962020 •
Dark and decayed textile fragments found in burials have added little to debates on life and death in the Early Bronze Age. The reporting of technical features such as spin direction and weave count by specialists has alienated many generalists, who cannot easily recognise the value of this evidence. Yet these fragments provide fleeting glimpses into the pivotal way people of this time used textiles to create magnificent burials. This chapter challenges assumptions about the textile evidence and re-evaluates the contribution of textiles to the funerary events of this golden age.
Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress. An Interdisciplinary Anthology, eds. M. Harlow & M-L. Nosch, Oxford
Roman Art: what can it tell us about dress and textiles? A discussion on the use of visual evidence as sources for textile research.2014 •
. In: D. Mladenovic und B. Russel (Hrsg.): TRAC 2010, Proceedings of the Twentieth Annual Theoretic Roman Archaeology Conference, Oxford 25-28 March 2010. Oxford and Oakville, 102-114.
Cloth and Clothing from Cemeteries in Noricum2011 •
Burial sites are the main source for preserved cloth fragments in Noricum. In recent years the scientific discussion of the processes of interpretating clothing and appearance through the remains in graves in Central Europe has increased, especially regarding the problems and limits of defining ethnicity using this material. The main focus always lies on jewellery and the metal parts of costume in the graves, as they are usually the only remains left for archaeological research. Our research has two aims: first, to provide a collection of data for basic research on Roman textiles in Austria. Secondly, to provide a means by which to develop a new method for analysing the material itself, the direct legacy of the people and their attire and costume worn at their burial. This offers a valuable addition to the analysis of written sources and well-known depictions. In a further step, it should be possible with this approach to develop new theories that can be combined with the traditional analyses of non-organic remains in graves. To identify Late Roman weave types in Austria (third-fifth century A.D.) within the framework of the DressID Project (Grömer und Kern 2008) archaeological textiles from modern Austrian territory were analysed.
IV e Rencontres doctorales de l'École européenne de Protohistoire de Bibracte
Lamb, A.W. 2021. Dressing the Dead: Dress Fittings in the Later Pre-Roman British Iron Age and their use in burial rites2021 •
In later pre-Roman Iron Age Britain (c. 500 a.C./43 p.C) people used a variety of items to secure their clothing. The most frequently recorded examples in the archaeological record are various pins and brooches, which display chronological and regional variations in terms of frequency, typology and potentially use. Some of these objects belong to long-established insular traditions, whilst others are more similar to types employed on the continent. The best clues to their use can be found in the increasing number of graves recorded for this period. The ways in which these dress fasteners were positioned within graves suggest that different later Iron Age communities sought to present the corpse in different ways. These approaches to depicting the dead would have been important in terms of how the deceased were remembered and who was permitted to view them.
2021 •
Textiles have always played a prominent role in death. They were and continue to be used to hide the body and to recreate it into a "deceased". This prominent role is well-illustrated in ethnology but often ignored in archaeology. Rarely recorded together in situ, textiles are removed from the human remains, stored in different locations, and studied by different specialists. We are thus destroying precious evidence and limiting our understanding of funerary events. How was the body prepared before the funeral? How was it seen and perceived by its relatives and community? What role did textiles play in its metamorphosis into a deceased? This workshop aims at exploring these questions by bringing a small but highly specialized team of experts from the fields of bioanthropology, archaeology, textile research and conservation. Its first geographical focus will be the ancient Nile Valley (Egypt and Sudan), where climatic conditions permitted the good preservation of textiles and human remains. The second focus will be Europe, with case-studies from Greece, Finland, Poland, Austria, the Iberian peninsula, and elsewhere. Going beyond these geohistorical frameworks, the workshop will strive to build new methods for the study, retrieval and conservation of funerary textiles in situ during excavations. We believe that it will provide useful tools for future research in both textile archaeology and bioarcheology and promote interdisciplinary collaborations for textile scholars.
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